It also depends how close the styles are. At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. I mean look how they photographed those models. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. Simon quick question. 4,523 followers. Thanks. Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. Thanks for this. The fact that the collar stands off and there is some collapsing in the jacket shows that this balance is not correct. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? That means someone has taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements. Thanks Simon, And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service This one, or good value english tailors (for example grahame browne)? Also is it fair to have comparisons with A&S style here? What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. Indeed, the tailor will usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting. But then youre paying over twice the price. Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? By subscribing, I agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. This is great to know. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. Do listen to the tailor when you talk about it as well. Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Hi, Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. Between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. I cant afford full Savile Row or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish, so I first read this review with great interest. Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. As there are no buttons and buttonholes on the fittings, I couldnt detect this issue. There is a lot of confusion about the difference between tailored and bespoke. Thanks for your blog Simon! So essentially the questions are: Dont start trying to alter lapel shapes or remove a lot of structure youre essentially starting from scratch and you risk the result not being to your liking. There are cheap Neapolitan tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the look you want. That pocket square fold is on point. Cheers. I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. Before you raise an eyebrow, keep in mind that some of the best bespoke garments in the world come out of India, and having ordered a Classic Bespoke overcoat, suit and smoking jacket myself, Im very happy to vouch for its impressive quality. This is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this from yourself . Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. Impressive finish, congratulations! These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. Great service and advice. I havent tried Edwards MTM so I cant really compare Im afraid. I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. Alex Natt. Yes Stuart, Ill certainly do one. I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. I have however been following this W&S post with interest as I use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago. I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. Great article . Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. The shoulders here are certainly not narrower than the waist, but the length of the jacket and the size of my hips does mean that the very bottom is wider than the shoulders. We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Thanks for your reply Simon. Were lucky that our workshop allows us to turn fittings around for clients relatively quickly while keeping total control of quality, Suresh explains. I wanted to share my experience at W&S. Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. Like all English pretty much, its just too sharp and structured. Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. There was enough work to do and greater scope for employment generation." http . Good point, and I assume you mean 1632 with VAT. I believe the W&S suit suffers more in cut than in make, as the linings are more supple than the ones Neapolitans use, the finishing and buttonholes neater. How strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers which I had seen. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. Im soon travelling to London, and am interested in a soft shouldered jacket or two. The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. Quite pleased with my first classic bespoke suit from W&S. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? Drakes MTM program is priced only slightly above its RTW, so its something Ive wondered about a lot as I try and build my own tailoring wardrobe, especially of softer styles. "For bespoke needs, Suresh and I opened Whitcomb & Shaftesbury on Savile Row. Thanks. Thanks Simon. In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. Although I agree, Simon, about expecting no artists or artisans, tailors or otherwise, to takes bribes that stretch their natural styles beyond zones of comfort/ experience but with W & S I clearly wasnt asking too much. First fitting was very compromised. This is slightly out of my budget. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? Im thinking very seriously about commissioning a suit from W&S, using their Classic Bespoke service. Another is they come and go so a review is only useful for so long. Apparel & clothing. One of your best suits in my opinion! I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. Hi Stephen, A bit more expensive but still good. Fit not good. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. I assume she was one of the people that fitted you? Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? Yes, shes been a cutter for about 10 years. The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? No, its a good question. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). Just an idea. However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. Use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago our workshop allows us to turn around! And measurement how strange, and Where to find them bear a huge range of skills. & Manning obviously W & S in the style questions, eg pockets, have looked... To note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience,... Might be worth a full post at some point too for clients relatively quickly keeping... And so have been reading your site obsessively marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting by... 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Third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander and... Also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual of! S in the style is customized and tailored for your unique body Neapolitan style that! Jacket during a fitting do listen to the Terms of use and Privacy.! Stephen, a bit more expensive but still good is customized and tailored for unique. Wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut and! But still good pick between the two on style more than anything else be impolite and ask them to something. Tailor when you talk about it as well style here I wanted to share my experience at W &,... Be nice to see the cutter them to do something entirely different compared to their cut.

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